People of the PCT

During my 46 days and 785 miles on the PCT, I met and hiked with some really great people. The following photos represent the folks with whom I had the most interactions with. If I forgot anyone, please accept my apologies.
 

Justin (Jupiter), New Zealand  

Cedar, Minnesota  

Tyler (Jack Pot), Kansas  

Alex, Minnesota  

Ben (Protein), France  

Chris (Whole Roasted Chicken), soon to be Duke University  

Madison (Little Bear Can), Kansas  

Sam, California  

Neil (Yeti), Australia  

Colten, Utah  

Flame, Michigan  

Sarah (Gourmet), Oregon  

Phil (Nacho), the state that Boston is in which I cannot spell  

Sonja (Broken Spoon), Colorado  

John (Apple Jack), Washington  

Dutch, Mississippi

Brad, somewhere in the USA, but I cannot remember  

Will, California  

Pebbles (Germany) and Bambam (Oregon), but in reverse order  

Skittles, Mississippi

Gabe (Sinatra), Oregon

 

Day 47 June 22, 2017

And that's a wrap.

Because of my experiences struggling with the Sierra snow and raging streams and rivers, I have made the tough decision to abandon my dream of through hiking the PCT. I knew making the attempt in a high snow year (Mammoth Mountain Ski Resort, which is further north on the PCT recorded a total of 618 inches or just over 51 feet of snow this winter) would be tough, but my timing just sucked. It has been relatively cool all spring in this area until early this week, just as our group entered the mountains. Then the heat wave started and the melt got going big time. It just exceeded my comfort level to ford icy cold, fast moving streams and to spend hours trying to navigate lumpy snow under the forest cover, or worse yet out in the flats where snow cups awaited.

Because the long term forecast is for a continuation of the heatwave, it really only left me with three options, with the fourth option of returning to the mountains simply out of the question.

First, I could skip ahead past the Sierra with the intention of coming back later in the summer. Two reasons for nixing that plan. First, there is nowhere to skip ahead to that will be snow free. Maybe not as severe as the Sierra snow pack, but still not enjoyable hiking. And this hike was supposed to be enjoyable, not a forced march. Second reason is personal. I feel that a true through hike is defined as starting at Campo and walking one continuous line to BC. Just my way of thinking, but it is important to me.

The second option that I considered was to jump to a different trail all together. The most obvious choice would be the Oregon Coast Trail. Although this has some appeal, it just is not calling my heart. I have dreamt about a PCT through hike for near on seven years and the thought of filling in with a different trail just does not cut it.

So that left the third choice of coming home. At the end of the day for me, it really was the only choice to make. I have a wonderful wife and kids and a great home life to return to. So I will make whatever arrangements I can to get likely to Reno and fly home from there.

The most obvious question that will linger is will I regret this decision later. In my mind, no not at all. I am very proud of my attempt at a through hike in what can only be described as one of the most difficult years in a couple of decades to do the trail. At 61, I was one of the more senior members of the hiking fraternity, yet I was able to maintain pace with the younger crowd that I befriended. I met some truly wonderful people out there and learned way more about their bowel movements than I would have ever imagined! With a very, very few exceptions, everyone I met on trail were great people. The 15 member hiking "family" that was assembled starting in Warner Springs was so much fun. We literally laughed our way up the trail. The week that I did spend in the Sierra was stunning. But it would have made so much more sense to be there in late summer or early fall.

So, with that, I finalize the obituary for my PCT through hike. Rest in peace my dream.

Day46, June 21, 2017

• Daily mileage 0 PCT, 13 non-PCT
• Total mileage 785
• Hiked from whenever to whenever (ok, I forget!)

Out to the town of Bishop

Today was the summer solstice, which means it was officially hike naked day. But, all of my clothes stayed firmly on my body where they belong!

I awoke to a surprisingly heavy frost this morning. Well that explained why it felt so cold last night. Our group was away in a fairly early fashion with one thing on our minds. Town. This seven days in the Sierra have been incredible, but also very wearing. Our first task was to find our way across the valley bottom with only occasional glimpses of the actual trail. Apple Jack and Gabe had joined us so as a party of eight, we forged our way across to the switchbacks leading up to Kearsarge Pass. Well, most of us did. Sam, Chris and Gabe missed a turn and ended up having to go up about a 600 foot elevation rock/scree scramble to get to the pass.      

It was a cold morning at Bullfrog Lake      

More drop dead scenery on the way to the pass      

Looking back from the top of Kearsarge Pass

We knew to expect snow on the other side of the pass and were not disappointed. We had a very long side hill traverse to start with and it was a bit sketchy. Not as bad as the one yesterday on Forester, but a fall would have had consequences. Like, there would be no stopping before a very cold looking lake at the bottom. Everyone made it without any problems and then we were back to the fun "I wonder if this is where the trail is" game. You follow footprints in the snow, you follow your gut instincts, you check your maps, you check GPS if you have it, but it still feels like opening a present on Christmas morning when you actually see a patch of bare trail. This was about when we started hearing rumblings that the road down from the trailhead was closed from returning hikers. When we finally got to the road, indeed it was closed.      

Long side hill traverse from the pass on the right side of the picture      

Frozen Pothole Lake      

Yet more stunning scenery      

And more stunning scenery

We all took the time to dry our gear which was all soaked from last night's condensation and then it was time to start the dreaded six mile road walk. But with genial banter and the knowledge the town food and cold beer awaited us, the two hour walk in the increasing heat went fairly well. When we got yo the closure, there was no washout. What the hell? But then we looked at the snow melt fed stream flowing into the culvert under the road and saw the reasoning. It really is only a matter of time before the stream either overflows the road or worse, washes out the culvert.

Six miles of this. Bleh.      

We were all very happy to get to this sign

Down at the bottom, there were two minivans waiting for us. The first one was Sam's dad and little sister. They had driven up from the Bay Area to meet Sam for a few days. The second one was trail angel Santa's Helper whom we had last seen back at Landers Meadow. Between the two vans, we squeezed all of us hikers and our gear in and headed to Bishop. 

First stop, food and beer. We ate at a very good Mexican place which served their fare on very much oversize platters, but it all seemed to just disappear. Then we scattered hither and fro to find accommodations and do all of the mundane tasks that town days involve. 

Apple Jack and I happened to end up at the laundromat at the same time and we both had a good laugh when the local news included a list of local roads that were closed due to flooding from the snowmelt. We both figured it would have been faster to list the roads that remained open.        

No, we do not need any take away containers!

We met up with everyone who has made it to town (only Cedar, Alex and the Bearcans are still up in the mountains) for supper and exchanged war stories. Three members of our group turned back from the Wallace Creek crossing after two of them got swept by the current. Pretty much everyone had similar stories. All of this is because as I sit here in the valley bottom, it is well over 100 F which means the huge snowpack from last winter is melting at an accelerated pace.

Then it was bedtime which turned out to time to be listen to the junk air conditioner rattle all night trying to get the  temperature down to just below the boil!  

As a final twist of irony, the hotel has adorned it's walls with pictures of local scenes. In my bathroom, there is a picture of, get this, f***ing sun cups.    

Day 45 June 20, 2017

• Daily mileage 11
• Total miles 785
• Hiked from 6:15 am to 5:00 pm

Forester Pass done.

One intense rain squall came through last night but other than that it was uneventful. Got up at a leisurely pace and got going at the job at hand. Get up to Forester Pass.  This is the highest point on the entire PCT at 13,200 feet. Because we were going up early in the morning, the snow was still frozen which made for fast travel. The first big challenge was a very steep side hill traverse to get us to the bare trail carved into the side of the mountain. With my crampons and ice axe, it was doable but definitely had my full attention.

Early morning near Forester Pass  

Foresrter Pass is the small notch in the wall of granite   

Steep traverse across snow field. That was the sketchiest part of the day. 

Back onto bare trail 

One last snow chute to cross before the pass   

Forester Pass

After that came the famous (to PCT folks anyway) snow chute just below the pass. To be honest, it was less scary than the side hill traverse. Then we were at the top. It was a beautiful clear day and the views were amazing. Made all the better knowing that the only way to see them was to work your ass off to get there like we had!

There are two ways of getting down off the north side of Forester in a big snow year like this. First and most popular is a couple of long glissades or pants of your ass sleigh runs. The other was a long traverse off the pass which supposedly lead to an easy way down to the valley below. Because I was not comfortable with the glissades, I opted for the "easy" way down. And it was easy right up to the point where it was not. The footsteps lead to a cliff with no apparent way down. After poking around a bit, I found a safe way down that included, you guessed it, a glissade. Now this was a little baby version of the other way down, but the irony was not lost on me.

Then we started the long, slow hike down the Bubbs Creek valley. There was one stream crossing to contend with which involved a rather small log over a torrential stream, but all of us made it over safely.  

Stunning scenery surrounded by the devil sun cups.  

Line of fellow hikers making our way down the Bubbs Creek drainage  

Log crossing over the raging Bubbs Creek

For whatever reason, I simply could not get out of low gear today. Most of the day was spent hiking on snow which is very tiring, but even that does not justify my glacial progress all day. Oh well, tomorrow is a town day so maybe I can inhale enough calories to become effective again.  

A bunch of us (Nacho, Yeti, Flame, Colten, Sam, Chris and Gabe) are camped at Bullfrog Lake which is actually off the PCT and is tributary to Kearsarge Pass. We have about seven miles to cover, all of them likely snow covered to get yo a road leading to the town of Bishop. I will likely take at least two days off there to recharge the batteries. While there, I also have to come up with a game plan for moving forward. Going back into the Sierra at this point seems a bit foolhardy because of the massive melt happening right now. So I have to come up with Plan B.  

It is so pretty up here. Why does it have to be do damn hard?

  

Everywhere you look it just jaw dropping  

Unlike last night, this storm cell never came our way  

Home for the night

Day 44 June 19, 2017

• Daily mileage 11
• Total miles 774
• Hiked from 5:15 am to 5:00 pm

In the desert, we craved and sought water.  In the Sierra, we fear water.

The rest of the crew who were summitting Whitney were up super early, so I was ready to go at first light. The first two or three miles were very chill. Then just as the trail disappeared under a blanket of snow, Yeti (formerly known as Neil of Australia) came along so between the two of us (two half wits DO make a whole wit), we navigated down to Wallace Creek. We even had to don our crampons and ice axes on one particularly steep section. When we got to the creek, we looked up and down but found the best crossing was right at the trail. Now, crossing these creeks is not a matter of walking across a dry bridge. No, you get to wade through fast moving water that was recently snow. But that one went just fine.

Early morning in the Sierra 

Neil (Yeti) showboating when we brought out our crampons and ice axes for the first time             

About two seconds later when Neil fell over!             

Where we crossed Wallace Creek 

After Neil and I had crossed the creek and were pretty much warmed up and dried, a large group of hikers started crossing the stream. One fellow who had lost both of his hiking poles when he got swept in Rock Creek was having a very difficult time in this crossing. When the fellow behind him shouted out that someone had better help him, back in I went. It is what we do for each other up here, but man that water is cold.

Then it was up the trail to Wright Creek.  That is where the day took a turn for the worse.  We scouted about a half mile upstream to where we had been told there was a good crossing. I lead the way in and got to about 4 feet of the far side when the current swept my feet out from under me. At that point, I found myself facing down crawling as best as I could in very fast moving, icy water with nobody on that side of the stream to help me. I have no idea how long it took to get to the safety of calmer water and then dry land (it was likely 10 seconds or less), but it felt like an eternity. I got out and immediately stripped down and got into dry clothes. Other than a few scrapes on my legs and hands, the only casualty was one of my trekking poles was sacrificed to the stream. I heard later that at least two other hikers lost their footings in various streams today alone.

       

Wright Creek. This is not where we crossed, but it gives you an idea of the volume of water we were dealing with.

But, we were not finished with stream crossings just yet! After a slow slog through sun cupped snow, we arrived at Tindale Creek which was raging.  Again, prior knowledge told us to go about a half mile upstream for a better crossing.  Well that was not good enough for me, being a tad gun shy by now. So three of us went a couple of hundred yards upstream until we came to a wide spot in the stream where the water was only calf deep. Very time consuming, but with a good result.           

Sun cupped snow, I hate travelling across you so much.             

Imagine walking through these for hours on end.          

The hard hiking did result in awesome views

I was thinking of calling it a day there, but the members of the group I was hiking with (Yeti, Nacho, Flame, Sam, Chris and Colten) convinced me to move up the snowy valley a bit farther to set up an easy ascent of Forester Pass which is the high point of the PCT.  The group was fantastic in waiting for me when I fell behind (they are all in their twenties and thirties). Now we all camped on a rock outcrop over looking a winter wonderland scene. We are camped at over 12,000 feet and there are rain squalls roaming about. Here is hoping for a quiet night.         

Home for the night