Day 70 August 3, 2017

Daily mileage 28
Total mileage 1277
Hiked from 5:45 am to 7:15 pm

Stunningly beautiful in the morning and kind of mundane in the afternoon.

After I was all settled into my tent last night I realized that my sleeping pad was going flat at a rapid rate. How convenient that I am camped right by a lake. So I got up and tested for leaks and found the culprit right away. It took two attempts but I did get the leak patched. It is the little victories that count!

I also ended up sharing the campsite with a really nice couple named Zebra and Skittles (if you have been paying close attention, you will know this is the second Skittles I have gotten to know on the trail). I ended up leapfrogging with them for the next few days. Super nice young couple from Northern California.

Zebra and Skittles taken a few days later in Medford

I was away at almost first light. The smoke in the sky that has been in the area for a couple of days made for a spectacular sun rise. The hiking in the morning was really beautiful. I was above the treeline and the vistas were great. After a while, the feature that this area is named after came into view. Marble Mountain is this beacon of white surrounded by all the other grey mountains. After getting up to the base of the mountain though, I am pretty sure it should have been called Limestone Mountain.

Smokey sunrise

There are forest fires behind and ahead of me but I am still hiking through snow patches. That is the PCT 2017 in a nutshell!

The lake with the most intriguing name: Man Eaten Lake

Marble Mountain

Random cabin in the woods

At times on the trail today we almost needed traffic control measures. I ran into three different Boy Scout Troupes, a long procession of CCC  (California Conservation Corps?) workers out doing trail maintenance. Throw in a few Sobo section hikers and dayhikers and you had a very busy trail.

I stopped at the horribly named Paradise Lake for lunch and Dutch came up the trail. I had met him way back near the beginning of the trail and got to know him and his hiking buddies around Hikertown. I ended up hiking with him the rest of the afternoon. He did the Sierra and has now caught up with me. Nice to see a familiar face from the first part of my hike. Zebra and Skittles also joined us for the prolonged break.

The hills are alive....

"Paradise" Lake

The afternoon took us down a long ways in elevation and through several old burn areas. It was ok but I prefer the vistas up in the subalpine.

I hiked most of the afternoon with Dutch.  That is rare for me as I usually hike alone.  But along the way, we had some really great conversations which definitely helped melt the miles away.  We, at one point or another, noted that the trail is a great equalizer when it comes to making friends.  And we were proof of that.  Here I am, a 61 year old from Western Canada having simply a great time chatting with a 21 year old from Mississippi.  Dutch did a very nice job of capturing that conversation on a video of his later (he gives me far more credit for the discussion as it was both of us talking about it).

There are 6 of us camped here tonight  (Zebra, Skittles, Radio, Dutch, someone I do not know and myself). The plan is to get going as early as possible to beat the heat on the remaining miles into Seiad Valley.  No picture of the campsite tonight as the mosquitoes are savage.   

Day 69 August 2, 2017

Daily mileage 15
Total mileage 1249 (2000 Km's done!)
Hiked from 10:30 am to 5:00 pm

A nice days hike that ended with a killer campsite.

One thing that I forgot to mention about yesterday is that whenever Veins and I would see each other on the walk into Etna, we would remind each other that all this walking was worth it because there is a brew pub in town with a reputatation for great beer. So we get to town all geared up for this beer and good food experience only to find out they close on Tuesdays. So instead we ended up at a diner eating meh pasta. Sometimes the trail gives, sometimes she takes away.

So this morning was reminiscent of most town mornings. Try to sleep in but fail. Have a breakfast that someone else cooks. I went to a local bakery that served great quality but low quantity. Do your food shop. Ray's Market was amazing. They have truly figured out that there is a market to be had in PCT hikers. Then pack up and go.

Downtown Etna

I got a hitch with the third vehicle (another pick up truck) and was back to my trail by midmorning. For once there was no massive climb out of town. As a matter of fact the whole hike today was pretty mellow. Which was good bcause it was stupid hot.

Not far from the start today there was a trail register. I had lots of time so I leafed back through it to see any familiar names. And then it hit me that there just were not a ton of names period. I mean, maybe there were 400 or so but that just does not seem to be many hikers.

The snow and stream crossings in the Sierra basically broke the hikers into four groups this year. Those fearless few who went straight through. I would guess maybe half of them have passed this point. Then there are those like me who skipped ahead. Most of us should be at or past this area because I went home for three weeks while most everyone else kept hiking. Another group flipped ahead generally to Ashland and hiked south. They should all be past this point because I am only about 100 miles from Ashland. And finally there were those who went home and stayed there.

So you can see my math in saying that only 400 hikers signing that registry is shockingly low. Particularly when you realize that over 3300 PCT permits were issued this year.

But enough about all that. From Etna to my next "town" at Seiad Valley, it is only 58 miles. So today I could back off the mileage and still be able to make it there in the cool part of the morning on Friday (there is a long road walk into town which will be very hot). So when I saw this little lake (Fisher Lake) with a campsite at 15 miles for the day on my map, I figured that would be my target.

And a good target it was. It is just a beautiful little spot and so far I have all to myself. I did not go for a swim but I did dangle my legs in and get cleaned up. Then I just sat there for an hour soaking my feet and watching salamanders.

That is how close the PCT got to a forest fire

Fisher Lake

Of all the critters I have seen on the PCT, salamanders and chipmunks have to be the most polar opposites. Let me explain. When you see a chipmunk heading up the trail before it sees you, it is always running at full speed. When it sees you, it locks up all four brakes  (the little puff of dust always makes me chuckle) and tears off down the trail at the same speed. They simply do not know how to walk! Then there are salamanders. They lead life going at a very relaxed pace with no apparent concerns in the world. K, maybe I have too much time to think out here!

All in all, a very relaxing and good day.

Home for the night

Day 68 August 1, 2017

Daily mileage 23
Total mileage 1234
Hiked from 5:30 am to 4:00 pm

Town Day!

At 23 miles to hike, that was the longest run into town that I have done yet. And what looked like easy hiking on the maps and profiles was actually quite arduous.

Both Veins and I were away at first light. The first few miles were easy and we crushed them. But then we entered the Russian Wilderness and everything just seemed to get more difficult. It did not help that the day was hot and we were in a burn area for a long while. But it was also very beautiful so there was that.

Goodbye Trinity Alps, hello Russian Wilderness

John (Veins) from North Carolina. He has been my Southern Redneck hiking buddy this week

Russian Wilderness beauty

If you look carefully you can see the PCT climbing up through the old burn area 

Our relentless pursuit of the highway to town was abruptly interrupted (or at least it was for me) when the trail came within a few yards of Paynes Lake. It was far too hot and the lake was far too inviting, so in I went. It was a wonderful break.

Paynes Lake, my private swimming hole

Another lake that was too far off trail to investigate 

Then it was back to the charge to the trailhead. When I got there, Veins was just getting into a pick up truck. I raced over and was rewarded with a ride to town.

Once we had completed the very narrow, winding roads (complete with a civilized discussion about President Uknowwho), I got dropped off at the town's main motel. Sold out. Drat.

So I wandered off to a small hotel, the Collier House and got a huge room/suite for the night. No air conditioning, but still superior to Big Agnes.

I had dinner with Veins at an ok little diner and then called it a night.

Day 67 July 31, 2017

Daily mileage 29
Total mileage 1211
Hiked from 5:30 am to 6:30 pm

(Yes, I know that the video is backwards with the afternoon report before the morning report. Get over it!)

That was an excellent day of hiking but I sure wish the trail would stop going south.

For as much as my sleep the night before was horrid, last night I slept like the dead. This despite the rather loud couple sharing the site. OK, I might have been petty and broken camp rather loudly early this morning.

The morning was quite smoky, apparently from a fire to the south of us. As a result, the views from the trail were diminished. Bit it was still beautiful.

I believe this is a species of carnivorous plants specific to this area. It is called California Pitcherplant and they trap and digest insects 

Typical trail

If an area is called Trinity Alps it had better be stunning. It was.

Towards the end of the morning, the trail crossed Hwy 3. Now this highway is rather remote where the trail crosses it, so I did not have any hopes for trail magic. And that always makes for the best trail magic!

Trail magic!

Trapper, who thru hiked in 2015 was set up with everything that a hiker desires but does not carry. Beer, sodas, sandwich stuff, cookies and chairs. Glorious, glorious chairs. I hung around there for about an hour before getting back to the business of hiking.

The next section started out with two modest hills totaling about 1800 feet. It must have been the beer and mint Oreos that gave me an abundance of energy for those lumps.

Part way up the first hill there was a sign saying the trail was entering the Trinity Alps area. Now, if you are going to give an area a rather grandiose name like that, the scenery had better be special. Well, it was. Short of the bit of the Sierra that I saw, it was the nicest scenery on the trail so far.

One complaint that I do have from today is the about half of the day was spent walking South. Away from Canada. Is that not a little bit counterproductive?

I am camped with Veins again tonight and we plan to make short work of the remaining 23 miles to the trailhead leading to Etna tomorrow.

Home.for the night

Day 66 July 30, 2017

Daily mileage 28
Total mileage 1182
Hiked from 5:30 am to 6:00 pm

A day of lakes, naps and a swim.

So when I was setting up camp last night, rather than putting everything inside my tent right away, I left it all sitting outside. Turns out this was a very bad decision. There are tons of ants everywhere around here. I would guess that about two dozen of the really big black guys hitched a ride into my tent on my gear when I finally did put it inside.

So pretty much all night, an ant would crawl across some part of my body about every thirty minutes. Yeah, not one of my better sleeps on the trail.

Veins was up and out of camp before me this morning. Hang on, that never happens. Guess that is what I get for camping with a fellow old guy!

Man, I paid the price for charging up that hill yesterday, combined with a lack of sleep. I had no energy all morning. The trail was very easy but I just had no giddy-up.

The miles did get done and by lunch I was at Deadfall Lake. When I saw the name of this lake, I set the bar pretty low. But it was a beautiful alpine lake. When I got there, I flopped down in a shady spot and was asleep almost instantly. I think I was out for about an hour.

Typical trail today 

Mt Shasta yet again

Pictures do not do justice for this area 

Deadfall Lake

That snooze, combined with a good lunch turned my whole day around.  I felt like hiking again. As I said, the trail was easy so getting in 28 miles was not a big deal. I had targeted another lake by the name of Bull Lake as tonight's camp spot. When Brew Hiker and Yachti  (she hikes with her kitten) went in for a swim, I figured why not. So now I am somewhat clean and cooled down.

Yachti and Manzanita the kitten

More beautiful trail that does not get captured by the camera

The bugs have chased me into my tent which I am hoping is ant free.

Home for the night with my swimming hole in behind

Day 65 July 29, 2017

Daily mileage 19
Total mileage 1154
Hiked from 10:30 am to 7:00 pm

That was a long uphill on a hot day.

Started out the day having breakfast with a couple of fellow senior hikers Frog (whom I met in Warner Springs) and the other guy whose name I have forgotten (Steve I think). Told you it was a seniors gathering.

I had contacted a local trail angel last night about getting a ride back to the trail this morning. So at about 10 he is there to pick me up. I expected he would have a bunch of other hikers with him but it was just me. I mean, how great are these people. And he would not accept any gas money. Tony, if you ever read this, I hope you get your PCT hike next year.

So with the temperature hovering around the boiling point of water, I headed out to do one of the bigger hills to date. Where I started at the I5, I was at 2200 feet. Where I am camped tonight I am at 6300 feet. Did I mention that it was hot? But the climb actually went really well. Maybe the 1100 plus miles of hiking is actually getting me into shape.

One great thing about gaining all that elevation is that it took me back up into the subalpine. The views were stunning. The feature that dominated the view today was Castle Crags. But late in the day, Mt Shasta entered the picture again looking as majestic as before.

Km's?

Packing out fresh tomatoes for the first couple of days is so worth it!

Castle Crags area was stunning

Mt Shasta still in the viewscape 

So I used my new, if somewhat small pack today and what a difference. It felt like I had a day pack on. I was not having to periodically shift the pack around to find comfortable positions.

Tonight I am camped with another fellow senior named Veins. I hiked with him for the last 4 miles to this camp and had a really nice conversation with him. Our kids are the same ages and he owns a retail store. Nice guy.

Well that is the story of my day. It was a good one.