Thursday, 15 June 2017

Day 37 June 12, 2017

  • Daily mileage 21
  • Total mileage 676
  • Hours hiked from 5:30 am to 5:00 pm

Today I passed the 25% completion mark for the trail.

Last night sucked.  It was freezing cold up there at 7,600 feet.  I had ice in my water bottles when I woke up.  I say "woke" rather loosely as sleep was hard to come by.  I knew I had a small leak in my sleeping pad previously, but last night it developed into a large leak. To the point where I had to leave my downy warmth every two hours to blow it up again.  I just backtracked to the last stream crossing at tonight's camp and submerged the pad.  A leak showed up right away so I have patched it and am waiting for the cure time to test it.
Early morning on a cold mountain
Today was a bit of a roller coaster out here.  Straight away, I had a long downhill. Then a short uphill.  Then a short downhill.  Then a long uphill followed by a long downhill.  During the first downhill, I went past the 25% completed mark on the PCT, and tomorrow when I reach Kennedy Meadows, I will celebrate the end of the SoCal desert.  Seems to all be happening fast!    
 
Getting more mountainous      

Cacti in bloom   
  
More desert scenery
The weather tonight is much warmer than the last couple of nights, but I suspect that is more to do with camping at lower elevation than a change in the weather.
     
Home for the night
OK, let's talk pooping. Yes, we do it out here just like at home. Reese Witherspoon even did it in "that" movie. It just gets talked about a lot more out here. Everyone seems to want to discuss the grandeur of their morning movements. In fact, there are seven "D's" involved in taking a poop on (or hopefully near) the PCT:
  1. Decide
  2. Detour
  3. Dig
  4. Drop
  5. Dump
  6. Disguise
  7. Discuss
It is the last "D" that makes me chuckle.  The other day at lunch, someone initiated a conversation about the colour of their pee out here.  The discussion lasted five minutes tops.  But if someone brings up the topic of a poop, well there goes a full hour of hiking time lost.  As a sidebar to this sidebar, the hiker formerly known as Bear Can Kan is now tentatively known as Jack Pot because on five, yes five separate occasions, he has dug his cat hole right into a previously used spot.  It seems to be a gift only he has.

Wednesday, 14 June 2017

Day 36 June 11, 2017

  • Daily mileage 25
  • Total mileage 655
  • Hiked from 5:15 am to 5:00 pm

Today started out very cold and it is ending the same.

Woke up just before 5:00 and was rolling down the trail with every piece of clothing available to me on.  It was some sort of cold.  It was cold during the night, but my trusty sleeping bag was up for the task.  This morning was a downhill cruise to a water source called McIver Springs.  When I got there, part of the crew was there, so it was nice catching up with what is happening.  The plan right now is to assemble everyone in Kennedy Meadows, eat lots,, rest and then head out into the Sierra on Friday.  I am hoping to be in KM by Tuesday so that will be a nice break.

Early morning 
When the trail is actually a road 
Trail heading to Walker Pass
Next stop after the water source was Walker Pass.  Coppertone was supposed to be there, but alas he was not when I got there.  But, some kind store owner had left all kinds of soon to be stale dated loaves of bread, bagels, donuts and other goodies.  Lunch is served!  While a bunch of us were sitting and gorging ourselves, some section hikers who were just finishing their hike came over and gave us all their remaining protein bars.  Again, score.  Then Coppertone drove up. Yeah, five for five with seeing him. Of course, it would be impolite to turn down a root beer float.  Then, a random gentleman drove up and handed us a bag of cold beers, hard lemon aid and other drinks. Best two hours yet!

That will be the last time I see Coppertone.  He is off to a family reunion rather than following us up to Canada as he apparently usually does.  He is a really great guy, and I say that not just because he gave me five root beer floats.  He is just one of those genuine type people that you come across every now and again.  If we lived in closer proximity, I could see us two old guys being buds.

Trail switch backing ahead 
More desert
I more or less waddled out of the area and took on the big climb for the day. All said, it was about 2,500 feet and I now sit at the top of the climb setting up camp and freezing my ass off.  The climb went really well, so maybe there is something to be said for pigging out before a big task like that!

Home for the night

Day 35 June 10, 2017

  • Daily mileage 21
  • Total mileage 630
  • Hiked from 5:45 am to 5:15 pm

Today was all about wind.  Lots and lots of wind

The camp I chose last worked out just fine. I could hear the wind just howling through the trees above me but down at my ground level it was quite calm.  I accidentally slept in a bit, but that was ok.

First order of the day was to get down to the Kelso Road water cache to see if it was stocked.  This is about a 39 mile stretch where water is very hard to come by.  I would have to go off trail a couple of miles each way if there was no water at the cache.  Well, thank goodness there was plenty of the precious liquid there.  These people who make it their business to help us PCT hikers out are amazing.  I grabbed a couple of litres (why oh why is water measured in litres in this country while gas and everything else is measured in gallons?) and was on my way.  Into the wind.  The wind was just screaming all day long.  That in itself was annoying, but when combined with the fact that the trail was built in sand all day long also made for less than ideal hiking conditions.  Not the worst, but room for improvement.

I just love early morning light

Yet more SoCal desert to walk through

Why?

Again, why?

Joshua tree fruit
I got to the second water cache of the day, which apparently is stocked by the same people just as the bubble of people I hike around were pulling out. No big deal, we will likely see each other at Walker Pass tomorrow or certainly Kennedy Meadows next week.  Made the final climb of the day, and at the top what should appear but the snowy Sierra off in the distance.  Yikes, this is getting real! 
Balanced rock 
Sierra mountains are now in sight
I found a camp that is somewhat shielded amongst the trees so here is hoping for a good night.

Home for the night

Day 34 June 9, 2017

  • Daily mileage 22
  • Total mileage 609
  • Hiked from 6:00 am to 6:00 pm

Passed the 600 mile mark on a great day.

The cowboy camping experiment was great last night. I had pretty much the best nights sleep since I started this trail.  More to do with exhaustion than the cowboy camping experiment I would guess.  All of us had agreed to sleep in a bit this morning, so I was not up until around 5:30.  I got going fairly quickly, and immediately came across this huge flat camping area not 200 yards from our tight little space.  Oh well.

The day started out with a fairly easy climb and just got better and better.  The weather was breezy and cool which meant great hiking conditions and no bugs. Soon enough I was in a scrub forest area with a general trend towards downhill.  Even my water situation was comfortable enough that I was able to give another hiker a half of a litre because he was out and we were still about 5 miles to the spring.

Easy early morning trail

I made it to Robin Birds Spring around 11 and filled up on a couple of litres.  The group decided to meet seven miles down the trail at Landers Camp for lunch.  I was skeptical of the distance to go, but the trail was about as easy as a trail can get.  Shortly after the spring, I came to the 600 mile marker.  Yeah!  About a mile from the lunch spot, there was a road intersecting the trail.  And on that road was a minivan which really could have been there for one reason only.  Yes, trail magic.  Santa's Helper is a section hiker who is taking some time away from the trail to do trail magic.  He had cold drinks, cookies and other goodies.  Thank you Santa's Helper.
600 miles done 
A car out in the middle of nowhere means one thing! 
Easy trail
A quick mile brought us to the arranged lunch spot.  Although we are missing a few of the bubble, it was fun to get together.  Plans were made for the next long waterless stretch and then immediately revised only to be changed back again.  Group inertia at its finest

Broke away from Landers around 4:00 and hiked for a couple of more hours before settling on a ridge top camp that I hope is not going to be too windy.  The cowboy camping experiment will continue tonight.
Home for the night

Day 33 June 8, 2017

  • Daily mileage 22
  • Total mileage 587
  • Hours hiked from 5:15 am to 5:00 pm

Today was much cooler and the trail was generally downhill.  Why did it feel so hard?

So last night I chose a spot to camp that I thought would be shielded from the rising wind.  I am here to admit that I was wrong.  Way wrong.  I got buffeted by the howling wind all night long.  Sleep was hard to come by.

Got going at my usual time and finished off the uphill that I left last night.  Several times I had to stop completely to let a gust pass by or it would have knocked me on my butt or worse. After the top, the trail was actually very easy.  Part of the trail was a shared jeep road.  Not really road walking, but not really a trail either.  The goal for the morning was a water source called Golden Oak Spring. The area around the spring was awash in hikers.

Lichen covered rocks

Yummy water

More wind mills

Cowboy camping

I got going fairly early in the afternoon but the miles just did not come easily to me.  It was only 10 miles to where I am camped but it really dragged.  The heat wave we have been experienced has broken so the temperature pretty bearable. I think I was just beat from lack of sleep.

Camping spots are at a bit of a premium in this area so I am cowboy camping with 5 other hikers (Tyler, Madison, Chris, Neal and Sarah).  Hopefully we are shielded from the wind a bit better.

Day 32 June 7 2017 Part two

  • Daily mileage 12
  • Total mileage 565
  • Hiked from 4:00 pm to 9:15 pm

Hopefully the last hot day for a while.

After I did my last entry this morning, my plans have changed again vis a vis the Sierra.  I have now sent a resupply box to Kennedy Meadows so I can stay with the group I am hiking with now.  Just does not make sense to try the Sierra without the support of other hikers in this rather high snow year.  With that done, I just relaxed in the shade in town until a very kind lady came along and offered rides back to the trailhead.

I hung around with Coppertone and a few other hikers for a bit until the heat of the day was a bit less daunting.  Then I headed out into yet another wind farm.  Those things are so cool.  After a bit of a lumpy trail I came out at Hwy 58. There was a car down there dropping of some hikers and the driver offered me root beer and a fill up on water.  Impromptu trail magic!  Then I reached the most hallowed grounds on the entire PCT.  This is the exact spot where both Cheryl Strayed and Reese Witherspoon started their PCT journeys!  
 
Wind farm

Where Cheryl Strayed started

More SoCal desert

Moonrise
There was a long hill after the highway and I am camped about half way up it.  The weather is supposed to be much cooler starting tomorrow, so finishing the hill should be no issue in the morning.

Wednesday, 7 June 2017

Day 32 June 7, 2017 Part one

Happy one month trail anniversary to me!  I left Campo on May 7th and now find myself exactly one month later some 550 miles closer to Canada.  So, before I head out today from Tehachapi (it is hot so a bunch of us are heading out late with intentions of night hiking), I thought I would do a bit of a review on how this first month has gone.

Before I started the hike, pretty much everyone asked me if I was going to hike alone.  My answer remains the same, but for different reasons.  Yes, I rarely hike with anyone on the trail.  We all hike at different paces (mine being one of the more pedestrian speeds) but I have fallen in with a really great group of upwards of 15 hikers that I leapfrog with all day long.  Rarely do we all camp together, but it a fun night when we do.  The entire group loves a good laugh, and as far as I am aware, there is no tension or drama involved.  I am the senior member by quite a bit, but luckily I was born with a young heart!  So, no I am not hiking with anyone, but yes I am hiking with a big group.

What does a typical hiking day consist of, you may ask. When you read one of my daily summaries on this blog, it may take you five or ten minutes to do so.  But it has taken me 10 to 12 hours to do the miles that are summarized. I generally get up at 4:45 which allows me to pack up and be ready for the day's hike by first light just after 5:00 am.  I rarely eat breakfast in camp, preferring instead to head up the trail a few miles.  Lately I have been trying to eat more calories at each meal, so I have been breaking out the cooker to make a couple of packs of oatmeal.  One consistent throughout the day is the commitment to refill on water at every possible source.

Somewhere around noon or whenever I get hungry I stop and make lunch.  Early out of each resupply, this is generally tortillas with either tomatoes or avocado with string cheese and hot sauce.  Then when I have run out of fresh produce, it is a pack of ramen with peanut butter.  Lately in the early afternoon, I will find a shady spot which usually is loaded with other filthy hikers and wait out the heat of the day.  This is where I start to look at the maps to figure out a camping destination for the night.  I have been targeting twenty miles per day since day one and that plan has served me well to date.  It also seems to be what the rest of my hiking companions are doing as well.

If I have taken an afternoon break, I head out at about 3:30 to complete the days miles.  I am keeping a video record of the hike and I try to consistently do a short recording early in the morning and a second one later in the afternoon. I try to be at camp between 6 and 7.  This gives me plenty of time to do the camp chores.  First one is set up the tent and get everything inside without allowing a lot of insects in.  Key at this point is send the family a message on my Spot PLB that I have made it to camp for the night. Then it is time to cook dinner.  Most nights it is rice Sidekicks or KD or ramen or instant mashed potatoes.  This involves boiling the appropriate amount of water and then putting dinner in the water and let it "cook" in the pot in a cozy.  Fuel is too valuable to simmer food.  While that is cooking, I type in the bones of the blog entry for that day.

After dinner, it is usually approaching 8:00 pm which is bedtime.  In order to sleep well, I usually pop some Vitamin I because without it, the legs and hips are sore to lie on.  Then I may read a few pages on my book on the iPad.  Then sleep and repeat.

Generally the first month has been kind to me.  The PCT is never in a hurry to climb a hill, so the exertion level is never at max.  Please do not get me wrong, I am beat after a days hiking, but it is not extreme.  Food consumption has been a problem.  I am definitely burning more calories than I am consuming.  There is a K-mart a couple of doors down from this hotel so I wandered in there yesterday and stood on one of their bathroom scales.  Now normally I weigh myself buck naked so as to achieve the optimal result, but I felt that may be frowned upon at a K-mart.  So doing a bit of adjusting for clothing weight, my estimate is that I have now lost 14 pounds in a month on trail.  Must eat more food!

I leave you with a picture taken a couple of weeks ago back in Holcomb Creek.  Nathan is a through hiker who is hiking with his dog Bandit.  We were all taking an early morning break in the shade.  If you look closely, you can see that a butterfly landed on Bandit's head and stayed there long enough for a photo opportunity.  Photo credit to Nathan.
Bandit accessorizing with a butterfly